I'm starting to regret not purchasing the "ugly" CR-10S instead - never had an issue at work. I'm using the stock hot-end, stock fan, stock cooling duct, only changed firmware.Ĭould the duct be cooling the nozzle, or cooling the part "to quickly?" It seems as if the JGAurora A5's nozzle isn't warm enough, or that the PLA is cooled before fusing to the other layers. No stringing on any printer, and Wanhao i3 and CR-10S produces extremely well made parts!! Maybe I could test with a 0.4mm box vase print to verify accuracy (105% flow greatly enhances strength) If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons. Howdy, Stranger It looks like youre new here. I have not changed flow or filament diameter, because it is a consistent 1.75mm, and if I change the flow, that would probably make the part to large for my components to fit. The images downloaded on this site are quite low resolution and many card printing sites will not print the image on cards because of this. Definitely didn’t have enough zombies in my life. Posted by davidlferrell OctoOctoLeave a comment on Reason 5,863: Look. I changed some settings back to stock, basically making the printer move slower to minimize ripples, which seems to be better. 10,000 Reasons Why the MTG Multiverse is a Terrible Place to Live. I'm on the custom firmware (1.8 C?) and it works fine. Just bending slightly gives me that brittle PLA breaking sound, and by applying a bit of force, the layers snap apart. Need to do a lot of printing for a job project, and wanted to use my printer at home as well - but prints are brittle, same settings, same filament. They feel like a 100 % solid plastic part! The parts are so strong, I'm not able to break them. I've also got a new quality filament which seems to be working great for two printers I have at work (Wanhao i3 and CR-10S). So I've been trying back and forth the last few months.
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